Thursday, April 15, 2010

La Corrida de Toros!

Here I am in the bull ring!! We had pretty good seats too... notice it was raining...again....



Before I start, here is a basic overview of the bullfights:

Spanish-style bullfighting is called corrida de toros, which means "race of bulls". In a traditional corrida, three matadores (killers) , each fight two bulls, each of which is between four and six years old and weighs no less than 460kg. Above the bulls' entrance to the right is a sign with noting the weight of the bulls. Each matador has six assistants — two picadores (lancers) mounted on horseback, three banderilleros (flagmen) - who along with the matadors are collectively known as toreros (bull fighters) - and a mozo de espada (sword page). Collectively they comprise a cuadrilla, the entourage.



The modern corrida is highly ritualized, with three distinct stages or tercios, the start of each being announced by a trumpet sound. The participants first enter the arena in a parade, called the paseĆ­llo, to salute the presiding dignitary, accompanied by band music. Torero costumes are inspired by 18th century Andalusian clothing, and matadores are easily distinguished by the gold of their traje de luces (suit of lights) as opposed to the lesser banderilleros who are also called toreros de plata (bullfighters of silver). These trajes de luces are my favorite because they are so sparkly. They are also INCREDIBLY tight to keep the bull's horns from catching on any of the clothing, the toreros and matadores are actually dropped into their pants because they are too tight to pull on- even dressing these people is ceremonial!

Next, the bull enters the ring to be tested for ferocity by the matador and banderilleros with the magenta and gold capote (dress cape)- it actually looks hot pink and yellow, but anyway. This is the first stage, the tercio de varas (the lancing third), and the matador first confronts the bull with the capote, observing the behavior of the bull while performing a tanda (series of passes) to impress the crowd. The first fighter had a rather lame bull, it didn't really run very much, but the other ones were extremely excited. One of the bulls in our fight ran out and charged the wall so hard that he broke one of his horns- it was so scary!! When the bull is imperfect like that, the president allows it to leave the ring and another one will take it's place.



Next, a picador enters the arena on horseback armed with a vara (lance). To protect the horse from the bull's horns, the horse is surrounded by a peto — a protective mattress-like covering. Prior to 1930, the horse did not wear any protection, and the bull would usually disembowel the horse during this stage. Until this change was instituted, the number of horses killed during a fight was higher than the number of bulls killed, so I'm glad they started padding the horse. These bulls are incredibly strong. When the bull is being lanced, it can get under the horse and lift it up at times. It's scary because the picador is strapped on the horse, so he doesn't have a way to escape. At this point, the picador stabs just behind the morillo, a mound of muscle on the fighting bull's neck, weakening the neck muscles and leading to the animal's first loss of blood. The manner in which the bull charges the horse provides important clues to the matador about which side the bull favors. If the picador is successful, the bull will hold its head and horns lower during the following stages of the fight. This makes the bull's charges less dangerous and more reliable, enabling the matador to perform.



In the next stage, the tercio de banderillas (the third of flags), the three banderilleros each attempt to plant two banderillas, sharp barbed sticks into the bull's shoulders. These anger and invigorate the bull who has been tired by his attacks on the horse and the damage he has taken from the lance. Sometimes a matador will place his own banderillas.



In the final stage, the tercio de muerte (the third of death), the matador re-enters the ring alone with a small red cape, or muleta, and a sword. It is a common misconception that the color red is supposed to anger the bull, because bulls are colorblind. The cape is thought to be red to mask the bull's blood, but now it's just tradition. The matador uses his cape to attract the bull in a series of passes which serve the dual purpose of wearing the animal down for kill and producing a beautiful display or faena. He may also demonstrate his domination over the bull by caping it especially close to his body. The faena is the entire performance with the muleta and it is usually broken down into tandas, "series", of passes. The faena ends with a final series of passes in which the matador with a muleta attempts to maneuver the bull into a position to stab it between the shoulder blades and through the aorta or heart. The act of thrusting the sword is called an estocada.





If the matador has performed particularly well, the crowd may petition the president to award the matador an ear of the bull by waving white handkerchiefs. If his performance was exceptional, he will award two, and in certain more rural rings a tail can still be awarded. Very rarely, if the public or the matador believe that the bull has fought bravely, they may petition the president of the plaza to grant the bull an indulto before the tercio de muerte. This is when the bull’s life is spared and allowed to leave the ring alive and return to the ranch where it came from. Then the bull becomes a stud bull for the rest of his life and is used for breeding.

That's basically an overview of Spanish bullfighting. I will say that I was a little scared before I went, I wasn't sure what to expect- although we had a lecture over the bullfights, it's different when you're there and you know an animal is about to be killed right in front of you. I talked to my house mom about what to expect and she said to think of it as cultural and an art- because that is truly what it's viewed as here. I kept that mind set, and knowing that these bulls are bred for this purpose only, made it easier to appreciate.

I enjoyed the bullfights- the matadors are so graceful and so artistic, it's almost beautiful. I'm so glad I got to experience this extremely pertinent part of Spanish culture!

Love,
Merick :)

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